Watch Gerry working hard to finish this entire set of projects in this segment, including the yard lead and highway! His final push begins by adding detailed markings to the sandpaper roadway surface. Then, Gerry jumps to the task of installing the overpass, complete with surrounding scenery. All that adds up to a space that’s now become a fine-looking (and functional) place!
Want to see more of Gerry’s work on a classic, familiar format? Look for his Turning Spaces into Places Vol. 1: Rural Scenery DVD, available from the KalmbachHobbyStore.com!
This was errantly left in the comments for Part 5 but there is no way I can delete my own comment
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FWIW, the dimensions for dashed lines on roadways, as established by the FHWA’s Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices, is 10′ stripe with 30′ gap – a 40′ pattern.
Interesting information – this was changed with the 1972 MUTCD. Prior to that ’72 revision, the pattern was 15′ stripe/25′ gap – a 40′ pattern. The research behind the change in ’72 was 1) drivers could not distinguish between the [new] 10′ stripe vs the [previous] 15′ stripe and 2) there was a 33% reduction of paint for the dashed lines with no measurable negative impact to traffic safety.
However, in using “selective compression” required for our modeling, ultimately, the best way is just “to make it look right.”
Further, for the purists – couple of other significant changes in traffic control were part of the ’72 MUTCD –
1) dashed lane lines went from white to yellow. Previously the dashed lines were white with [only] the No Passing Zone solid line being yellow. With the ’72 Manual, all centerline striping became yellow, bot dashed and solid, also denoting the left “border” between opposing traffic; traffic in the same direction was separated by white.
2) both STOP and YIELD signs went from black letters on yellow backgrounds to white letters on red backgrounds.
(Interesting side note ….. many kids toys which have any traffic signs STILL use yellow YIELD signs. When my daughter took Drivers Ed in ’93, she was the only one in her class who knew that YIELD signs were RED w/ white letters. Reckon being raised by a traffic engineer actually DID teach her some things ….. LOL ?? )
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Looks good! Can you add no passing stripes at the center line thru all those curves in the road?
Joe — Interesting suggestion. I’d have to do a bit of research, but I’m not sure that no passing stripes had been developed in the mid-‘50s that I’m modeling. From what I recall reading, even yellow stripes weren’t around until the ‘60s.
According to Chuck Coker on Quora:
“ The 1948 Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices (MUTCD).specifdied white for center lines, lane lines, and pavement edges (page 78, 80). Yellow was recommended for the center line in No Passing Zones (page 82).”
Thanks for the information on the air compressor Gerry! I just ordered one. Thanks for the link!
Gerry, can you tell us the name of the little portable airbrush compressor you used and where I could find one. It looks to be very handy. I haven’t seen one of those before. Thanks Gerry!
Hi, Rod — That little compressor works really well. I loaned it to a friend of mine and he was impressed with it also. It’s a Micro-Mark product. I think it sells for $49 or $59. REALLY handy for taking out to the layout!
https://micromark.com/products/mini-compressor-with-airbrush-holder?keyword=compressor
Here it is. $49.
Another great video Gerry. I’m curious about your “progression” as you finish things up. Conventional wisdom suggests placing the track, then painting and weathering the track, adding the real dirt, then ballasting. Finish with the static grass and trees/shrubs/bushes. Even with a fine airbrush, I’d be concerned about getting overspray on the grass when painting the track…??
Thanks, Jeffery! Your conventional wisdom is almost exactly what I normally do, except I add the dirt first because it gives me more of a sense of “scenery.” Next, I mount the track and paint it. But before I ballast, I add the static grass, and THEN the ballast because I want the ballast to lie on top of the static grass or dirt if it dribbles down that far. I’m not sure why I painted the track after laying down the grass in the video, but I’m sure I had some sort of a reason. 🙂
Another inspiring episode. What do you have in mind for the grade crossing where the road crosses the main and the yard lead – simple crossbucks or warning lights (with sound?)?
Thanks again
Hi, Artie — I actually just put a pair of wig-wags at the grade crossing. I’ve love to put crossbucks there, but I can’t seem to find any anywhere that don’t have pre-installed LEDs and cost a fortune (relatively speaking). Whatever happened to the good old Life-Like/Atlas ones?
Suggestion. A short shift from construction to operation. How do trains move on the layout, passenger and freight? How do the yards work breaking down and delivering cars to customers, then re-making into outbound trains? How long does a typical train take to traverse the helix? Timetable, warrants, car cards, switchlists, dispatcher/train interactions – what do YOU do? Would be a delightful change-of-pace.
Thanks for the suggestion, Roger. Actually that’s already in my plans for a future episode or two. Right now I’ve got several episodes already filmed, edited, and waiting to be posted, so it’ll be a little bit before you get to see something on operations!
Gerry, hide the sins in your road striping with an asphalt patch. Works great for those of us who aren’t artists, and it actually adds realism.
Good idea, David! I may just go back and do that at some point!
Gerry– as you were wrapping up the final scenicking I noticed the roadside signage, and recalled the Burma Shave signs I saw as a child. Sure enough . . . ! Nice touch.
Thanks, Bruce! There are actually two sets of Burma Shave signs, one set for each direction. The one I read at the end was one set. The second set reads:
When you plant
All static grass
Mowing the lawn’s
Not a pain in the….
I’ll let you fill in the blank. 🙂