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The base layer is now in position over the benchwork. In this video, David keeps progress rolling and shows how to transfer the track plan from paper to plywood. After drawing a grid on the wood, David continues by marking centerlines for the helix and staging yard tracks.
Great video. However, how does the process differ when you are building a shelf/L girder/table top layout?
I have just set my yard and did things almost like you do them except for drawing the long straight lines. I marked the spacing on each end just as you did but then I used a chalk line to mark the lines. This was fast and we never got a crooked line and yes I needed a helper. To keep the lines from smearing all over the place I used unscented hair spray and that set the lines and I didn’t have any problems with the track glue.
Hey David, you proved that the only constant in the universe is CHANGE! Starting out with a drawing on graph paper is a plus. Looking forward to the next installment. A question for Jenny … what kind of editing software do you use? I see in the videos of people’s offices that you’ve got iMacs and PowerMacs. I’ve used iMovie for years and lament the loss of iDVD. I’ll assume you’ve got something a bit more powerful. Thanks!
When I have to make changes to several track positions, I find it helpful to use a coloured pencil to highlight the difference.
David, after watching part 7, I had to come back and watch #5 again to find some answers… and I did. However, after seeing the progress where the layout is currently by watching the web cam, your demo at the 14 min mark in this video might be a little more difficult in reaching in to add/remove a car on the innermost staging tracks,,, with the addition of the upper level? Anyway, looking forward to the future videos to see how that problem might be solved. Love this MRVP!
Just a cautionary point, be careful where you point that nail gun while I see a finger on the trigger. The camera person must be very trusting…..
Hi David, nice videos so far and it’s good to see some “reactive” planning in process. Could I ask why you are using Peco points (and I assume flex track as well) rather than other available makes? And I also assume its Code 55 and Electrofrog?
Kind regards
Dean
P.S. How did you lay out the reverse curve between the staging area and the helix? It’s a nice feature to prevent straight edge syndrome, so how did ya do it?
David: You didn’t show how you found (marked) the centerpoints of the staging track curves. Is that a non-issue? Or is there an assumption that folks will know how to do that?
Lots of good information that transcends scale. This is a very good instructional video. Way to go MRVP!
I’ve laid 1″ foam on top of a 1/4″ plywood frame and am wondering what type of “marker” you would use to do your layout with. Am truly enjoying this project! thanks,
The technical content of this video was fantastic. Thank you.
Nice lessons for new and experienced model railroaders. I used KATO double track as my template for making the lines on my latest model railroad. I employed the appropriate curve size and used the outside/inside edge to draw the curve. I later drew in the easements to the straight runs of track as well as the placement of turnouts. I then laid down my cork roadbed and ME code 55 track/turnouts, etc. I think I saved time but most important my curves and easements did work well. I could have saved more time if KATO made code 55 track.. Anyway loved the Canyon series and can wait to the next episode of project. Great work..
Hey David, great video.
I used to layout curves the same way you have but I ended up making the radius 1 inch too small which really messes things up. To fix this I place a nail in a small piece of wood and screwed it to my yard stick with the nail at the 0 position. No more screw-ups since and at lot less frustration.
When I layout complicated track-work such as groups of turnouts I actually create that section of track complete with joining rails and if necessary use thumbtacks to hold the track in place. This gives me the ability to run actual trains on it for testing as the thumbtacks sit below the tops of the rails. Just watch out for the cheap thumbtacks as they can pop the head and make a hole in your thumb. Better to use a small hammer to put the thumbtacks in and a cheap pair of side cutters to pry them out. I work in HO so thumbtacks may not work for N scale.
Hurry up and release the next video, I can’t wait till it’s finished.
Cheers from down-under.
No easements?
David, what is the purpose of marking your tape measured dimensions on both sides of the tape?
David – Is it possible to take your 3D Track Plan drawing, print it 1:1, and use it to lay out the trackwork? MR took the time to lay it out in digital form, why not use it here? If not, that is something I would like to see in a future MR Plus video. When using CAD drawings you can roll in easements with ease!
Joseph Domenico
I love the videos—explaining the carpentry and layout lines help–very good.
Got to see what the extra foot will bring.
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Great video David… wish I knew all this stuff when I was building my benchwork and laying out my track plan. Your points about checking to see if turnouts will be free from frame interference for switch motors is well taken. I had to move two of them to make Blue Point machines work properly. Never have built one, but I’m looking forward to the instructional part of building the helix and have caught some of it by watching the web cam. This will be a great layout.
Great video David, its like someone has switched on the lights. Now I think I can do this with less stress
MRVP is worth every penny of the subscription, the quality of the content and the quality of the film work puts it above the rest that try to emulate it ! 🙂
I’m quite enjoying this both for the location (I live in western Canada) and for the different techniques for building a compact layout that includes lower-level staging and a helix. Carpentry isn’t my strong point, so I’ve been furiously taking notes, and observing how the track plan meets with the reality of the table surface. 🙂 Looking forward to the next video and that cryptic note about adding a foot to it… 🙂
The idea of using a drywall T-square is good, and for the most part works. Of course the side you are using as a reference had best be square also.
Don’t know the stock number, but if you can’t get one from Home Depot, try Lowes.
Hopefully, they don’t follow the motto of our local hardware store: “If we don’t have it; you don’t need it!”
This is a very helpful video, both in being able to visualize a complex process and in considering real-life issues in moving from paper plan to the layout. One question: Why no discussion of easement between straight and curved track beyond the awareness of potential s-curves?
Great work on the project videos!
Great instructional video on laying out a complicated series of curves and tangential switches to the staging yard. Just one suggestion for the future, drill a hole where the center of the yard curves is located and either drop a nail in the hole through the yardstick or a wood screw so you don’t have to hold the awl while you are drawing the curves……its a little easier. Thanks for a great video David.