Videos & Photos Videos How To Track Planning Canadian Canyons Series: Part 13 – Tortoise switch motors in tight spaces

Canadian Canyons Series: Part 13 – Tortoise switch motors in tight spaces

By Angela Cotey | July 19, 2017

| Last updated on November 22, 2020


Email Newsletter

Get the newest photos, videos, stories, and more from Trains.com brands. Sign-up for email today!

Having trouble viewing this video?   Please visit our Video FAQ page
When essential framework under our Canadian Canyons N scale project layout prevented us from installing a Tortoise motor in the standard configuration, David opted for a nifty alternative solution. In this video David shows how to use a Remote Tortoise Mount to situate a Tortoise mount on its side!

19 thoughts on “Canadian Canyons Series: Part 13 – Tortoise switch motors in tight spaces

  1. I have a lot of these switch motors and have bought a factory harness for a 12 volt battery (the ones that go in most toys) and have made it so I can touch the outside contacts of the switch machine and make it turn each way by just rotating the battery. I was so very careful several years ago and broke a machine. They replaced it but I won’t make the machine work by hand again.

  2. Another helpful demo David, and well done. You said “I can’t imagine doing this on the underside of a layout”. I think it is time for MR Video to do just that. Imagine it, and make a video. I have many switches on my layout. I’m betting that there are a lot of folks out there with multiples switches that have to be installed from the bottom that would really appreciate some input on how do do it easier.
    . Come on David. Do your thing. Work your magic for us.

  3. Hey, David; on my HO layout, I ran into the “brace in the way” issue on 7 of the 21 turnouts. My solution, probably NOT for N gauge, was to make an extension for the turnout throw bar. I simply took a short piece of mechanic’s wire and bent one end into a 90º angle and inserted it into any of the 3 holes in the throw bar. I then drilled the mounting holes for the Tortoise where it would fit under the table top, including the activating rod hole. It was then clear where the actuating hole in the throw bar extension had to go. So, I cut the wire, flattened the end and drilled a hole with a #70 drill bit (0.028″ since the Tortoise actuating rod is 0.025″). A piece of cork placed under the extension rod keeps it from falling out.
    I did this 4 years ago and not one single problem! As I said, this may not work for N gauge.
    Love the videos, Thanks dave!
    Joe

  4. Fantastic video with detailed installation following the detailed instruction card. For a guy, we always follow the instruction sheet, right??? My question is how many times did you actually drop all of those screws and have to do a retake? Get a screwdriver that is magnetic and use Roberston [square head] screws instead to avoid stripping. With large hands and big fingers I can see the advantage of setting things on their side to work but who has that luxury.
    You need a rollable bench to lay onto under the layout to be able to reach up close enough to the underside because reaching up from the floor is not workable. Any suggestions where such a bench could be found? The Car Creeper style is too low.

  5. this question is actualy fo ask mrvp because there is no comment box below ask mrvp.
    I am building a cornerstone Bascule bridge and I don’t know how the track along with the approach track goes onto the bridge. Can you spread some light on it? Thank you. Dave

  6. Great job David explaining a rather complicated install. That is an ingenious device for a remote turnout motor, great product. Thanks.

  7. David, this is an excellent point to use the nail trick I mentioned to you on the phone some time ago. If you take a finishing nail, cut the head off and chuck it up in your drill, you are ready to go. When you have your points marked for the switches, instead of drilling and removing material, you simply push the material aside to leave plenty of material for the screw to grip in the deck. This helps prevent stripping out the hole with the screw as well. My friend John Yeager taught me that trick years ago.

  8. Well explained David… as you stated, don’t think I want to do that overhead on an existing layout.

  9. An excellent video explaining how to do the install. I can’t imagine trying to do that from the underside of the bench-work.. A very well done video, well done David!

  10. I installed the remote mount overhead. It took me longer than it took David for two reasons. 1) because David was able to turn the layout on its side and 2) I am 82 years old. If I can do it, anyone can. Two tricks to make it easier. Use a rolling adjustable height stool and wear a head light.

  11. David,

    As always, great video! Your comment at the very end about utilizing this system for semaphores got me thinking. Could this rigging also work for animating crossing gate arms?

    Mark

  12. David, next time you want to make sure your tubing is nice, round and clear; why not use a reamer instead of the file.
    Gotta agree with the guys who questioned your positioning of the electrical contracts.

  13. Thanks for the video. Nice clear presentation. It appears that the electric wire connects will be a bit of a challenge with the switch motor in that position. Would it make sense to make the electric connections to the tortoise before installing it?
    David

  14. Looks good. One question, David – Why did you position the Tortoise so that the wiring card was so close to the cross brace on the benchwork framing? It seems you had the freedom to place the Tortoise to allow easier access for wiring. Are you just messing with Ben? 🙂

You must login to submit a comment