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Every layout needs a hero — hero tree, that is! Even MRVP’s industry-oriented HO scale Winston-Salem project layout can use a few well-detailed or “heroic” trees in foreground areas. In this first of two videos, David shows the initial steps for building, shaping, painting, and staining such trees using plastic tree armatures.
I always worry about cutting myself and I’ve come to believe my right hand hates my left hand b’cus it’s always cutting or poking it with something sharp. Whenever I’m shaving material off I always use a less hand-destructive tool; in David’s case, I believe a 1/4″ chisel (MicroMark) would do a better, faster, and safer job than the dangerous hobby knife at ridding the trunk of sprue and injector marks. Also Cody could use it to smooth many of his projects.
Hey gang, thanks for the comments.
I stumbled on the “glue-ability” in the shop one day when I decided to just try it and see if it would work. I was so surprised it did, I tried several different WS armature packages, just to make sure I wasn’t dreaming.
Robert – Originally, this video was going to be about building trees by making wire trunks but then using the WS armatures for branches. Once I found I could glue them with liquid plastic cement, that changed the game. I’ve had some good success simulating roots at the base of the trunk by grafting on other pieces of branches. We did some of that on the Olympia project, as well as on the MR&T. Wire armature trees are also very effective, and they are my preferred N scale tree. It is on the list of videos to make eventually.
Antony – I used HunterLine stain on the trees. It is basically dye diluted in rubbing alcohol. You could probably use woodworking stain, but I’d conduct a test with it first. The HunterLine stuff dries in several hours. Wood stain will take a lot longer to dry – we used Minwax stain on the ties for the hand laid track, and it took days for it to dry out to the point that the stain wouldn’t come off you you while you were working.
Michael – You bet, soft-jaws on the vise would be really good. I’ve marked up a number of other projects using that bench vise and tightening it down just a little too much. We’ll look into getting some. I have a small vise at home that is equipped with them, and it works great – but alas, the tools I need never seem to be in the shop I’m working in!
Gus – N scale branches probably would work well for finer branching structure – I should experiment making a winter tree or two that way.
And sorry to all who were disappointed they had to wait until the next week to see the “leaves” segment. The original video was more than 40 minutes long, so we split it in two, as not to bore you! It is posted now, so the wait is over.
Glad you’ve enjoyed the trees! I need to finish a couple more for the layout yet – any volunteers?
David
Great video David. Awaiting the next one on the leaves and folage.
It encouraged me to open up my Woodland Scenics tree bags and start using them – after them sitting on the shelf for about 10 years
Terrific step by step, any idea when the 2nd part will be released focusing on applying the foliage? I was already to start the project and was surprised the video stopped at the armature.
Thanks,
Kevin
I’ve got a ton of those armatures – still in the factory packaging – collecting dust in the basement. Now – or after the second installment – I’ll know what to do with them.
Was that stain solvent or water based? Would a woodworking stain from Lowes or Home Depot work too?
I have been ignoring my unused packages of these armatures because the trees looked inadequate. It never occurred to me to “kitbash” them into better armatures. Great tip, and very clearly explained and demonstrated. Now it all seems so obvious! But as Sherlock Holmes said to a clueless Dr. Watson, “Everything is obvious — once it is explained to you.”
nice techniques to make the rather “blah” plastic trees look much better
Very realistic tree David, might it help to use some N scale tree limbs as well to get some finer branching if the tree wouldn’t have any foliage added? Great modeling techniques, thanks.
Great tip for low cost realistic tree
Interesting, but had you considered making a ‘hero’ tree from wire – like telephone wire. Benefit is that you have built in roots. For bark – use spackle. If you’re interested, I did a clinic for MCR Div 10 on this.
Thanks…nicely done!
I have a bag or three of the Woodland Scenics armatures for a near future tree making binge. made a few to get the feel. I was thinking I’d have to drill holes and who knows what to add branches. Years ago did a few “drill into the balsa wood” trees. Didn’t want to do it again.
And great to know TenAx works that well on their plastic. Saves me some experiment time.
Always great watching David. (Echo) (Echo)
Being careful to clamp the tree into the jaws of vice is ALWAYS a good idea. However, I am quite surprised that the vice doesn’t have a set/pair(?) of soft jaws/covers either made specifically for uses like this.
I have a “hobby table bench 3″ vice” (on eBay for about $16 or so) which has removable rubber caps over the solid/flat faces of the jaws. I have also seen removable covers made for full-size shop vices as well. (Some come with the covers and you can either buy or make protective jaw-face covers.)
You still have to be careful how much pressure you put on the object being held in the vice, but you DO reduce the possibility of damage to what you are holding.
I know, I know – easy to take off; easy to put on; easy to lose too. Put them back on if the vice is not in use.
Always great watching David. The layout is coming along nicely.
David, this is great video! Each step leads, inexpensively, to a better quality tree.