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Looking for a technique to use when making asphalt streets with a realistic appearance? That’s just what you’ll find in this two-part video series from MRVP Contributing Editor Gerry Leone! Gerry’s step-by-step instructions walk and talk you through the common products and processes you can use to model roads (in any scale) boasting both authentic texture and color.
Where can I find How-to Library: Modeling asphalt streets – Part 2? I watched Part 1 and now need part 2. I love Gerry’s videos. He is so helpful.
Where do you find the 100 grit BLACK sandpaper shown in Gerry Leone’s video, Part 1? Sandpaper 100 grit and lower numbered only seems to be available in sand colored. Black colored sandpaper starts at 200 grit and higher.
Aaron — don’t promote me too soon! I’m just a Vice President, and that’s as high up the chain as I ever want to get. Thanks for the comment!
A good tip by the president of the NMRA Gerry Leone on how to make streets.
Ed — I never made a video about making sidewalks. The whole technique was in an article in the March 2013 issue of Model Railroader.
Great videos. I can’t find the Gerry Leone video on making sidewalks.
Love the invitation to “Leone Labs”! Keep up the humorous sharing of tools, techniques, and tips, we all can learn about our hobby and new approaches to it.
Thanks,everyone, for the comments!
Joe: yes, that’s 5 parts water, 1 part paint. It wants to be a very thin coating.
Jeff: I don’t talk specifically about curves in Part Two, but curves are the same as straight sections: use a compass and cut ’em out of sandpaper. I don’t talk about grade crossings because building those is pretty straight forward stuff.
Robert and Ryan: I’m sure you could use 100 grit in N scale, but experiment with 120- or 150-grit sandpaper first before you commit. As you’ll see in Part 2, there’s a bit of drybrushing involved, so you may have to be VERY gentle doing it on a higher grade of sandpaper. Give it a test, though!
Richard: I deal with seams in Part Two in two different ways.
Thanks for watching, folks. I can’t wait to see what I do in Part Two myself! 🙂
This is a great idea Gerry. Hopefully Part 2 comes soon.
Have to keep this in mind for when my layout goes from poor Kansas and Colorado to the modern era.
This waiting for part II is almost as much fun as watching the paint dry.
Great video Gerry. All your videos are interesting and informative. Keep up the good work!
My road crew is ready to pave main street, but they need part 2
Nice video Gerry and great information. looking forward to the next part. One question that I have for you is when you say you dilute 5 to 1 is that 5 parts water or paint?
Thanks for all the videos you do.
Interesting. are you going to cover curves and grade crossings as well in Part 2 ??
When will we see part 2?
I can hardly wait for Part 2!
Great Video! Gerry I enjoy all your videos. It has helped me set up my shop and learn. this is a great affordable way to do some streets. Keep them coming.
What a awesome solution, Gerry! I have a N scale layout and none of the techniques I came up with ever gave me realistic streets. Since my streets will be for a smaller scale I chose a black 150 grit silicon carbide paper and will try your technique. If I have half as much fun as you were having, good times are ahead. Waiting eagerly for the next installment. Thanks Gerry!
very nice …. looking forward to part 2
How well does the 100 grit paper work in n-scale? Assuming a finer grit would not take details as well. Thanks for your great videos, always stuff learned and fun to watch too!
My father used this technique back in the early 90s on his layout. I recall how realistic his streets looked and visitors especially appreciated the realism. I almost forgot about this detail on his layout until I watched this video and you reminded me. Thank you for a great modeling technique!
Can that size sandpaper be used for n scale?
Good deal – a straightforward approach that uses (so far) stuff from the local hardware shop.
I have used a medium grade black sand paper with some light washes and dry brush to get a desired affect. Seams are always a bear to address unless you can hide them with crosswalk lines or other traffic control features. Thanks Gerry for the tips..