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Every layout, including MRVP’s HO scale Winston-Salem Southbound Railway, needs a foundation or “subroadbed” for attaching trackwork. In this video, David Popp shows how to install plywood subroadbed over L-girder benchwork. Along the way, he pauses to share helpful tips for making minor adjustments in special situations.
Great project!
There is an alternative to running a 3/8 bit backwards to countersink holes. In aviation there is a device called a microstop countersink. It is adjustable to set the exact depth for a countersink. Will drill exactly the same size counter sink every time.
another factor is the angle of the counter sink. Standard counter sink for wood screws it 82 degrees, but the bugle head deck screws are closer to 100 or 110 degrees. Most hardware stores sell the 82 degree counter sink. With the Microstop counter sink you buy which angle of counter sink that you will be using with or without a pilot. With the pilot it stays centered in the hole. Most aircraft tool suppliers have them. Some are also available at Northern Tool.
Great video series! I'm surprised to see you changing bits so much when two drill motors would make things go a lot faster and easier, but, to each his own.
Unlike you I am an older guy and seeing you cutting trim and other pieces with your chop saw sitting on the floor just makes my already bad knees ache just watching you. Maybe you should build some bench work to hold your power tools such as drill presses and chop saws….just sayin'.
Love it!
David, if you check at your building supply store you can get tapered drill bits that have a countersink attached to them. With the tapered bit you have more gripping power at the end of the screws and the hole and countersink is the correct size.
Why don't you buy the countersink drill bits? I have them and they save me a lot of time. I see you alway use phillips screws, You need to try srare or square screws. I use torx or stare screws and they don't strip out like phillips do.
David, great video, however as I sent in during the logging camp layout, had you chucked up a nail rather then a drill and ran that thru the deck you would have had a stronger connection. As John Yager of Helena, MT taught me so many years ago, by using the nail trick you do not displace any wood so the screw has more wood to grip, and also prevents splitting by making a path for the screw.
You might want to consider adding some white glue to the screws to help lock them. They should still be removable if you need to remove them, if the glue is used sparingly.
David Stark, I see your Missile Command, and raise you a Winky Dink. And you think you are old? HA!
A good set of countersink bits will also drill the pilot hole…in one step with the proper depth.
David, I really like your countersink alternative. Especially for benchwork, a whole set of different countersink bits seems to me to be an unnecessary expense. And thanks for all the benchwork tips in general. A very helpful series of videos.
Good demonstration about connecting subroadbed David. Yes I agree, someone buy David a set of countersink bits….so much safer and if you buy the tapered bits the screws hold better. Also, another way to align the screws on the plywood top would be to snap a chaukline between the joist ends. Nice video.
Nice – I always appreciate David's tips on carpentry!
Nice video.
Oh please buy David a countersink drill set. It pains me to see him struggle to attach benchwork. Running a drill bit backword dulls the bit and is not the safest thing to do. MR should "teach" proper technique and not "make do" technique. Too many of us will come up with the make do even when shown how to do things properly.
David, Missle Command! I thought I was old!