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Nothing conveys the appearance of a finished layout more than smooth-flowing hardboard fascia! But even though our N scale Canadian Canyons layout isn’t completed quite yet, David shows you how to measure, cut, and secure fascia around the curvaceous perimeter of our project railroad. Plus, you’ll also see how position and install the staging yard panel.
Thanks David. As was your 2010 project layout the inspiration for my current BD&O RR. the Canadian Canyons series serves as the inspiration for my upcoming “Retirement” layout. What is great about this series, regardless of whether you model this project or simply building your own layout, the tips as to tools, materials, and as my dad long ago taught me “Wood Glue and Screws” are invaluable.
Obviously you compress a much longer timeline into the actual video so the other takeaway is the patience needed to construct any model railroad.
Well done and look forward to future segments.
Jerry M.
Will you publish a track plan for the Canadian Canyons railroad?
Why did you mark and drill the holes for the LEDs for the control panel and then just rmove the whole thing and attach the panel?
Ditto to Andrew’s question about the pan head screws. Could you not use countersunk screws and then use drywall mud over them for a smooth finish? Also, why not use a forstner bit on all the holes instead of drilling the edges out and cutting one large expanse? Seems it would be firmer when pushing buttons.
I agree with John Bruce about completely covering the outside of the helix with fascia. Wouldn’t it be better to maybe cut “windows” into the fascia at strategic and uniform spaces around the helix? This would provide operators with limited visuals to their train as it circles and climbs or descends the helix instead of having their train disappear for a long period. It might also allow them to monitor the train as it traverses the helix and let them have periodic visual confirmation that the train is proceeding properly and none of the cars have derailed.
Would cutting out such “windows” weaken the fascia too much due to its rather sharp curvature? Would staggering the “windows” help? (As in providing a 3″ window 3 to 6 inches from a given point, the next layer having the window from 6 to 9 inches, the next at 9 to 12 inches, etc.)
Great video as usual, David. You guys provide such great instructional benefit by sharing your experience and expertise. I especially enjoy watching how you make changes on the fly: “Hey, we will need a mounting support here” kind of changes..
Keep up the outstanding coverage of all the various projects. I appreciate everyone involved in the recording, editing, and producing them!! Kudos to all!!
Jerry
PS. Gerry, you’re more than just ‘filler’, dude, even when you go way “Off The Rails” and talk about junk and dirt and stuff. I love your humor, Sir…
You can tell when school is in session when David is teaching class as he usually concludes with everything we’ve learned today. I’ve used fascia on my layout, but prepainted it before installing and I too used the finishing washers… adds a nice touch to it. Will the crew be painting the Can-Can fascia? This layout is a work of art and really a team effort.
I’m curious as to why you install the fascia before creating the scenery? Wouldn’t you want to shape your terrain, first, so you know what your fascia will have to conform to?
It seems to me using a black Sharpee marker instead of a pencil would make a line that would be easier to see when cutting the Masonite. I’m enjoying watching David and the gang putting the puzzle together!
I notice there’s basically no access to the helix except by crawling inside. How do you plan to clean the track on the helix? I assume that, should there be a derailment there, you’re assuming this will be rare enough that crawling inside will be tolerable. I guess time will tell, but people have been rethinking helixes for quite some time!
Enjoying this series. I have an N scale layout that I have been planning to build for some time. (unforeseen home repairs and now Harvey repairs have caused delays.)
I do not know if you have ever mentioned this in previous videos. If one is not familiar with using a using a skill or circular saw. Especially when plunge cutting. Setting the saw blade depth fro material being cut is an important step. Keeps blade from binding. Maybe fodder for another video in another series.
What drove your decision to use pan head screws to install the fascia?
As always David a good “how-to” on applying fascia to a layout. Not since my question to Cody leading to the “History of Fascia” segment, have I seen such complicated fascia. I’m adding fascia to my layout now and your segment will help me anticipate support points for screws. Thanks.
As always, this was totally and truly informative and entertaining. No one will ever be able to anticipate each and every (Shall we call them “glitches”?) that will occur when building something unique; but watching you, David (and the others), as you encounter and overcome(?) each new bump in the road helps me think ahead — NOT that it keeps me from making them, just lets me shrug it off.
I was somewhat surprised that you didn’t build a dimensional lumber frame on the back of the control panel, cut the hole rectangular, and push the frame thru from the front while anchoring it from the back. (I admit I do NOT know how much room/space is behind the framework where you placed the panel.)
David and crew, another worthwhile video, with plenty of ideas to consider.
I’ve used tempered hardboard and really didn’t like working with it, esp. when I needed to drive nails. Boo Hiss. I’ve used 1/8″ and 1/16″ Luann plywood and found it much nicer. Yes, it might want a coat of primer, but I’ve certainly liked the results. What is your experience?
Thanks Again,
David
All I can say about using tempered hardboard (Masonite?) is that it bends easier than 3/16″ luan paneling. Well, I suppose I could add that it smooths out nicer. Which may make it the material of choice for the next layout I build.
David I find it easier to use a counter sink bit when ever I need to have screws counter sunk. I am curious as why you did not us the finish washers on the fascia?
As always great video.