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The next stage of framework construction takes creature comforts into consideration! In this video, David first discusses how to establish the ideal layout height. He then shows how to install the layout legs, complete with sturdy casters that help keep model railroads on the move!
Greetings, I wish to share a trick I learned from a craftsman when it comes to gluing two pieces of wood together. As you know, the glue can make the parts kind of slippery and difficult to hold steady while screwing or applying the clamp. The trick is a pinch of good old table salt. After applying the glue, a pinch of table salt will act as a grip and the parts won’t slip around (as much).
Hi David,
I may have missed something but you say at the beginning that the ideal height for the level you worked on is 40 inches and never said that the casters add several inches. So the resulting height you built was actually about 43 inches. Am I correct?
Maybe I missed something but a suggestion would be to label each attachment point as A, B, C and D or 1, 2, 3, and 4. That way when someone else is setting it up, matching pre-drilled bolt holes becomes simple and quick. Same would apply to your floor cross brace – E and F or 5 and 6 maybe?
And from previous comments, I guess you just HAVE to make the sacrifice and “go out and buy another tool, dear…”. Buying a right angle attachment or right angle drill tomorrow!
Here in Canada we have Home Hardware as well as the other big box suppliers to keep business local.
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Tools/Power-Tools/Portable-Corded/Drivers/Attachments/Orbiter-Angle-Drill-Attachment/_/N-ntm8a/R-I1210251
“MAURICE GRIMES
Two questions in regards to using casters on the legs:
1) What do you do if you take one of the layouts on casters somewhere and the floor isn’t level?
2) Is there a way to make height casters adjustable?”
Mr. Grimes asks excellent questions. I hope, David, that you will provide comment if appropriate.
I suppose if the floor is not too far out of level, washers could be added between the casters and the legs- maybe not more than 1/4″ or so. Easier would be to shims under the casters once the layout is in final position when away from home.
Also, where do you get your select grade lumber? My local HD or Lowes has pine in only warped lengths. I was forced to use red oak at a premium price to get length stable lumber. Using the red oak (not as dense as real good oak) makes it harder to drill and screw into.
I really enjoy your videos David- all of them.
Another great video David. You show the art that goes into each step of building a model railroad structures from the bench work to the finished model. Enjoy all of your videos David.
I have always used a 9/64″ clearance bit for 1/4-20 bolts. The tile seams on the floor are more accurate for squaring large rectangle assemblies or simply measure the diagonals once the unit is assembled and then make the adjustments before the glue dries. To use the framing square or even worse a speed square to check for square,the stick lumber would have to be perfectly straight. I prefer not to pay the high price for the “select” dimensional lumber that you use in your projects.
Just when I am ready to build my legs, seems like every layout you build, you build the legs a different way and I have to rethink.(2″x3″, 2″x2″, 1×2 nailed to 1×3,. I understand that sometimes a layout like this one needs special leg construction. So do you do it different just to show the different types that can be built? Also sometimes a nail gun, sometimes drywall screws.
With the ease, except for the holes drilled in the jammed up area, that your bolts slipped through the holes you must have used a 9/64″ bit. When installing leg mounting bolts at 90 degrees to each other for strength, the farther the bolts a spaced vertically from each other will multiply the anti-wobble by orders of magnitude.
Great video David… so you only need to put the angle braces on one side of a portable layout? Thanks for the tip about removing the coasters before drilling as I would have ruined those on any future project of mine. Finally from the ‘outtakes’, a’pair’ently the first two things to go as we age are memory and uh… well I can’t remember the second one!
I wonder how many viewers realized that at 9:00 into the video, you reversed the 2×2 leg with the 1×3 board prior to drilling the hole. Pretty slick job of video editing. 🙂
I have a small drill as well as the large one (well, really, 2 large ones). But, as Joe says, there is the right angle drill as well for that. When you don’t plan :).
Thanks for “keeping it real”. We all make a mistake or put in a brace and then try to figure out how to mount the next piece, so I appreciate seeing you guys do it too 🙂
Noticed your casters only locked the wheels. Would be better if two of them also locked the swivel. That being said, remember to “Plan ahed.”
I would echo the comments on the right angle drill. At a certain point in layout construction, it becomes the go to drill. As nice as the std drill is to handle, the right angle drlill fits in more of the confined spaces you develop as the layout progresses. HD has a Ryobi to match MR’s batteries.
Thank you for this new and creative N Scale project railroad! I am excited to build my version of the Canadian Canyons! I was curious if you have frame dimensions and a materials list available on this project to aid in purchasing lumber and construction. Also, do you know if a track plan PDF file will be available in the near future for this layout? Thank you so much and I look forward to seeing your progress on this layout! : )
Nice recovery David. I’ve actually drilled holes through braces and used long shank drill bits to reach an outside leg for drilling carriage bolt holes……..live and learn. Thanks.
For drilling in tight spaces, Sears Craftman offers “Item # 00911576000P Model # 11576 3/8inch Right Angle Drill Driver”
Couldn’t have built my bench work without it
There is something therapeutic about watching construction projects in wood. I enjoy the systematic way David builds things. I look forward to the next phase of construction.
Thanks – this is the shop class I could never take in school.
Great video! However, an opportunity was lost to purchase a new tool: A right angle drill! keep up the work!
I ran into David’s “enough space for the drill” conundrum while building a HO helix recently. To solve my problem, I bought a DEWALT Right Angle Drill Adapter Model# DWARA50 for about $18 from my local Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Right-Angle-Drill-Adapter-DWARA50/203867866
When closely chucked into my Dewalt drill, it’s 5″ long and 1.5″ at the opposing right angle. Put a hex bit in it and you can fit it into a 4″ space, which is exactly the amount of rise on my helix. Works great for tight drilling and driving screws.
Have fun!
Two questions in regards to using casters on the legs:
1) What do you do if you take one of the layouts on casters somewhere and the floor isn’t level?
2) Is there a way to make height casters adjustable?
Work fascinates me, I can sit and watch it for hours!