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Model Railroader Quick Tips: Caulk for tracklaying
By Angela Cotey | May 20, 2016
| Last updated on December 8, 2020
| Last updated on December 8, 2020
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Track nails might be Last Century Technology; but, that’s what I used and would stick with them if I where just starting out, again! I always considered the nails to be a temporary way to hold the track in place while I tested out my track laying and ran trains to make sure things where right. Once I was happy with everything and ready to ballast, the ballast and scenery cement holds the track in place. You glue track down with “Liquid Nails, or Caulking” you have to break the bond between track and road bed to move things around.
There are many ways to skin a cat!
DAP 230 or Liquid Nails is what most people use for building the layout. nails are a temp solution until the glue dries.
Don’t use caulk, just use a small amount of Liquid nails project glue. You can lay the track and then after it sets you can test run for alignment, make it wet again and realign the section needing it. Just remember if you come back to ballast there are sections you will want to tack into place, especially curves or stressed alignments. Just ballast as you always do, tack the track and wait to dry. Pulling up rail is easy when you wet everything down and use a putty knife– and you don’t slam into one of those nails you forgot about.
I use Alex adhesive caulk for holding the track bed cork, I spread it with a 1″ putty knife for a thin layer. The caulk is tacky and it will hold the cork very well but still allows time to make adjustments. When I am ready for the flex track I spread a little on the cork and set the track in place. Pressing the track down sticks it to the caulk, again allowing for some adjustment. Usually I don’t need anything to hold the track in place unless it is on a tight curve.I sprinkle a little but of ballast in the the caulk and I have a start for further ballasting. Usually this is enough for the ballast between the rails. Removal of the track or read bed is easy with the putty knife. I suggest that you buy a tube and try it out on some scrap pieces. I love it!
I agree with Sean related to track nails. One will always have to make alignment adjustments in the track. They may have to replace track or turnouts in the life of a layout. Track nails allow one to remove the track if adjustments are needed. Latex caulk is somewhat permanent. If one has to replace track, you are not going to be able to replace the track because the caulk will make removal so much more difficult. The track will rip and tear upon removal. This is why I like a mixture of glue and water for track ballasting. If one uses the white glue & water adhesive; furthermore, the track itself remains in tact. I do not believe this would be the case with latex caulk. Be careful when one begins to be critical of old practices. Some are tried and true. Track nails are not “so old century.” They still work if one desires. Be careful what you say.
Funny. But I’m sorry I do not believe in using caulk to hold down track. Track nails do not have a drying period. Nor do they fail. They are also easy to remove when you must adjust track. I have heard of people having there track pop up or come loose after some time has passed, then only having to redo it all over. Good running track is just to important. However This could be an issue to debate on weather to solder your joints or not. I’m a firm believer in soldering my rails.
ha ha ha… that was hilarious! How many takes did it take to get that pack of track nails to land right on Davids desk? Great video 🙂
Yes, works great — until you want to change some trackwork. It’s a pain to pull up the track and most gets damaged as you take it up. I don’t use it — stuck in the 20th Century. Track nails will hold until the ballast glue dries which will hold the track just fine. And ballast is removable as well by wetting the ballast with warm water and let it soak in. Tracks comes up easily. In tough spots I have used a shot of steam from an old clothes iron. Have saved several turnouts using steam.
Can you put down ballast on the caulk before it sets?
Kenneth, the answer is: it depends on the type of caulk you use. If it is silicone caulk, you may be sanding for a very long time, that is if you can pry it loose in the first place. Latex is, of course, mostly “fixable” in the manner that you describe. So-called “painter’s caulk” works well for me.
Gus, the answer is no, the calk holds the track firmly, but slipping a putty knife under it easily pops it free and 95% of the calk remains on the cork roadbed. A few swipes with a sanding block makes it useful again. Just use a very thin amount of calk though, that’s all that is needed. My preference is not to calk down the turnouts. I let them “float” and held in place by he rail joiners. Once I make sure everything operates correctly, they will be held securely in place when ballasting. Tip: I found that by laying a fine line of calk about 2 inches long spaced 2 inches apart and spread with a putty knife is more then adequate and once the track is ballasted it’s not going anywhere. This on cork roadbed. I don’t know about the new foam roadbed though as I don’t use it.
I like this quick tip format. It’s a great way to engage the viewers, even if only for a short period. More content is better and seeing techniques in action is the way to go. I think this new fangled online video is catching on.
Very funny! I like the format.
Boy that really is a QUICK tip. I have used that caulk on my whole layout – works great!
Play nice boys. Good tip but isn’t caulk forever?