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Now that the surrounding Fraser River Canyon scenery is done, David can finally add realistic river water! In this episode of the Canadian Canyons Series, you’ll see just what it takes to prep the plywood layout surface, and then mix and apply the Woodland Scenics Deep Pour Water to the riverbed.
What is the clean up? can you reuse the cups for a second pour?
that color looks great almost like the pic, and very easy to do thanks
Very interesting method David, like the new Woodland scenes kit. Looking forward to seeing more progress updates
It looks like your pour was on an area that was really level. If your area is as level as what yours is can this product be worked to fill areas or should you make sure the area is really level. If you push it into areas that are high will it stay. What is the working time for this product?
River looks great
Hi James,
We haven’t posted Part 2 yet, but watch for it later today!
I just finished Canadian Canyons Series: Fraser River Water, Part 1, but I cannot find Part 2 by using the search box. What am I missing? There must be some easy way to do this. I expected Part 2 to show up under the video once I finished it, but it did not.
Thanks for tutorial David. I have been planning to use the Woodland Scenics’ system myself so your comments were well received. It’s complicated, but the system seems to work well according to most reviewers. The components are also available over the counter at a couple local shops, so that influenced my decision to use the Deep Pour system.
Can I say, this has been a stressful week for me and it’s only Wednesday… So happy you folks have posted several new videos! Thank you!
Informative and different method of pouring water. Even during the mixing stage and the color didn’t seem to be exactly what you wanted (but was close enough and move on), it turned out to be spot on to what the pic showed… sometimes it just turns out better than what you expected. Does MR seek out these new products to demonstrate or does Woodland Scenic and others send their products to you?
Why on earth would you use such a complicated water project? Seems that there are several much easier and less expensive options that have the same result.
I used the WS new water system on a lake that is 22″ by 30″ and 1/4″ deep. Its the center piece of my layout. It was not inexpensive and it was a time consuming “pour” but its well worth the effort and expense. David is correct take your time and follow the directions to the letter. DO NOT cut corners! Also do not over heat the bottle before mixing, I did one and it overheated to the point that it would burn my hand. It also hardened before i poured it. WS was nice enough to replace it for me a
t NC. The WS color products makes it possible to get the exact color you want. One thing i used to seal the bottom was a thin coat of :”Flex seal”. I’ve used it on two rivers and one lake and plan to use it again on my Oar Boat dock water. Yes the guy in the commercials is EXTREMELY annoying but the products do work.
Looks as close to the photo as I think you can get David. This layout is really taking shape.
Great segment David. Don has a good idea about the grid squares for estimating the area and the smaller the grid the more accurate the estimation. I think you nailed the water color David, good work. Thanks.
The color seems right on. It should improve with the next step, which is to add in the foam.
Too bad you guys didn’t use your drone to give a shot of the “end” of the river.
To get an approximation of an odd shape, dray it on graph paper then count the squares.Count partial squares as full then give yourself a fudge factor.
I have to determine the area of odd shapes often for work. Here’s another couple simple ways to compute the area:
1. Cut out the shape from the piece of paper, and weigh it, then cut out a known area and weigh that. Then simply use a mathematical lever to determine the unknown area from its weight and the known area’s weight. Obviously, one needs a scale or balance that will weigh the known and unkown areas at the proper resolution.
2. One can also use digital photos or a flat bed scanner and Image J to determine the area. Image J is free software from the National Institutes of Health. This method uses a calibration photo/scan of known area in comparison to the photo/scan of the unknown area to do a computation that produces a values for the unknown area.
Would it be a good idea to place a cover over to prevent any dust from settling on the resin?
That resin system is intriguing. I hadn’t yet heard of this product. Thanks for the clear tutorial on its use.