Olympia 2, The Log Blog: Part 19 Ponds and Porches
| Last updated on November 14, 2020
| Last updated on November 14, 2020
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I’ve used DullCote, liquid brushed on, to hide where my water resins creeped up the banks of my water features. Great video David. -Greg
Hi David
Greeting again from across the pond.
As suggested I went back and looked at the “A-frame” blog and I still feel you have misinterpreted the unloading process. The chains on log cars are either for , rarely , holding the loads on the cars or more usually they help to release the “cheese blocks” that hold the load in place. Using the A-frame attached to the cars would probably result in derailing the car which would not make the “camp push” very happy.
As I think I said there were straps attached to the brow log which were pulled across the car center sill under the logs ( pretty dangerous ) . These straps were then attached to the A-frame cables. The cheese blocks would be released and then the cables from the brow log and not the car would be tighten and the load tipped into the pond – without risking a derailed car. There are a few videos showing this and it is described in a number of books.
Sorry if I have gone on but with such fine modelling I think knowing the procedure helps
Looking forward the next blog
Best wishes
Alan Sewell, Hertford, UK
Great progress with the log blog. Learn a lot with every episode.
Wonder if a flat clear sealer coat like Minwax poly would prevent the wicking of the pond resin? I’ve used it on wood near ground cover with good results.
Have substituted acrylic gloss medium for water, it wicks far less than the 2 part mixes. The waves can be added over the acrylic too.
Wonder if such a logging camp would have shared privy’s or one per house?
Alan, you are correct. The cars have chains on them that run under the logs. The A-frame hoist is attached to the chains and lifted, effectively rolling the logs off the cars into the water. Sorry if I misspoke in this episode. I’d explained it all in an early episode while we were building the A frame.
Thanks for the comments!
D.
This is my first ever comment, and I must say that these videos are very very helpful, thank you so much I love anything about ponds and water, I would love to get one of those Turtles.
For the turtle, maybe a drum sander in a Dremel to curve his underside to fit the curve of the log?
Another great episode. Can’t wait for the next one. Using your ideas on my own ON30 layout. Thanks!
Hi
Greeting from across the pond.
Another interesting blog on the Olympia project. Good following along and seeing some new techniques and ideas which I can incorporate in my HO standard gauge logging railroad. However not to detract from the excellent modelling I would like to make a couple of observations
It is good that you have now put a brow log in place. They were a really common feature of log dumps before mills changed over to dry sorting. However unless I am misinterpreting the video I feel the log is set too low. Most I have seen would have the top of the brow log level with the log bunk, so that the logs being unloaded could not damage the car by rolling back against them.
It was also good to see the A-frame complete but I again unless I am getting it wrong the method of unloading you described is not what I would have expected. The A–frame is not normally – if ever-attached to the log car. Straps go under the load and above the car frame and are attached to links on the brow log. The A-frame is attached to these and as it is tightened it lifts and rolls the logs off the car. None of this really affects the great modelling but maybe helps with understanding what went on
Looking forward the next blog
Best wishes
Alan Sewell, Hertford, UK
Love this series! David, great work as always!
Hi David,
Will Olympia 2 be at Trainfest?
Hello all, just a few quick answers to questions this morning.
Anthony, the seller’s name is all run together as shown on the video. Just type “On30 logs” into eBay’s search box. If he has a batch for sale, you’ll find them.
John Gould, walkways and stairs are coming. Next episode should get the porches covered.
Robert, I used the skid shacks as a starting point, but yes, since I’ve placed them as a dividing point between the log camp on the upper deck, which should be far away into the woods someplace, and the sawmill, which is permanent, they are turning into company houses.
John Barbee, Dullcote works to a degree, but for course ground, such as sand or ground foam, the resin still works its way into them. The Dullcote does help keep the ground foam from acting like a sponge.
Charles, because the chemical reaction of the resin produces heat, it causes any trapped air in the river/pond bed to expand and work its way out. I know some have had significant trouble with this. Woodland Scenics suggests covering the water area to keep the heat locked in to help with the bubble issues, but I’ve not needed to try it. As James suggested, you can blow on the material to get the bubbles to dissipate some – you may try placing a small fan on the pond as well, but you don’t want to cool the resin too much before the chemical reaction has completed its work.
Thanks for your comments!
David
With the porch added, how do the people get in and out of the building? That looks like an awful big first step. Any plans for stairs to the porch?
Great work and the entire layout is beautiful. My only complaint is the logs in the pond look nothing like the logs on the cars or rest of the scene. Its very noticeable.
Is the seller “wolfsongunlimited” really Wolf Son Gun Limited or could it be Wolf Song Unlimited? The second one sounds so much better especially considering the product being sold. Just curious.
Blow lightly on the bubbles to get them to disapate.
Looking really good David, I think you have done it again. Details do make all the difference, even the smallest detail really adds caricature to any scene. Looking forward to the next log blog.
Nice job. Some stairs going down the hill and outhouses Would at interest details.
Just a great layout! Well done!
S’all right. Guessing those skid shacks are turning into permanent dwellings with the addition of porches and such.
Good save on the water bit, although the “creep” in the area of the cattails does look good.
Can’t you stop the resin creep by sealing the aareas with Dullcoat?
Great job Dave as usual. One question and one suggestion. I have been doing test pours with Deep Pou Water and keep getting pinhead size air bubbles in them. Any idea how to avoid or fix this? Also love the turtle. Maybe you could place him so his hind feet are just out of the water and flatten the log under his shell so he sits more natural Keep up the good work.
looking nicer all the time!
Great video, David! Love your ideas! Keep it up!
The details you put into a scene make it look more and more believable. I spotted the turtle well before you even mentioned it thinking that really adds to the realism. Thanks for also showing how you went back to ‘fix’ a problem area with the dock and resin creep and then putting it all back together making it look better than before. Hope to see this in-person sometime and admire all the details you’ve added through this series of ‘Olympia 2’.