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Another video on trackwork? Well, YES! This time David wanted to be sure you saw a couple techniques that weren’t addressed in the previous videos of our N scale Canadian Canyons Series. First up, David shows how to install a Tortoise by Circuitron switch motor in tight spaces that won’t accommodate power tools. He then goes on to demonstrate how to install curved track featuring concrete ties. Plenty of helpful hints, tips, and tricks to be discovered!
It’s always interesting to see the solutions other model rails come up with. In the interest of sharing (NOT to pick nits!) I offer these comments:
1) https://drillsandcutters.com sells 6″ (and longer) drill bits that can really be nice when space is tight. If the bit is long enough, the drill motor will be below the benchwork.
2) MicroMark (and probably others) sells a spring-loaded punch that I find very helpful when installing Torti. Once the screw holes are marked, I push the punch against the wood and it punches a starting hole for the drill bit (prevents bit from wandering while you drill). If you punch the same hole about 3 times, you have a starter hole and don’t need to drill it out!
3) My personal choice for soldering rail on curves is to solder two pieces of flex track together before mounting the track to the roadbed. Then bend the track to the shape needed. It does take a minute or so to do because the soldered joints may hider the curving of the track, but I like the ease with which the joiners can be soldered (before laying the track) and I find the curves are easier to make kink-free. If more than two pieces of flex track are needed to make the curve, I often stager the rail joints. This does require threading the rai through adjoining tie plates, and some putzing to make space for the rail joiners (filing or scraping the ties), but the joint is usually smother than if the rails were both joined in the same place.
We all have our own techniques, just thought I’d share.
I always enjoy and learn from your videos.
David, go to your local home depot and purchased a Rigid Job max 18 volt drill. It has several different interchangeable heads. One of which is a right angle 3/8’s drill. Also you can pick up various length drill bits. I have one and it works great in tight spaces.
David, could you please tell us the make and model of your pin vise?
OK, I have to ask the question……why didn’t that tortoise find it’s way under the subroadbed before the plywood base for the river get installed? Also, you can buy a flexible extension driver for your drill at good hardware stores that would allow you to drill and set those screw locations without torturing your hands. Nice recovery David. Thanks.
Rather than drilling holes in ties and driving track nails, I use map pins with tall shanks to hold track in place while waiting for the caulk to set.. No tools required to put the pins in place or to remove them.
David remember basic knife cutting, always cut away from you.
If you offset the rail joiners, wouldn’t that result in a smoother curve?
How are you going to get to that first switch motor after the scenery is done in case it needs to be replaced? It look like you have no access