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In this how-to video, MRVP’s David Popp shows you how easy it is to install Blue Point push-pull control levers used to manually throw turnouts on a layout of any size, scale, or complexity. David’s demonstration talks you through the tools and techniques you’ll need to add these mechanical devices, even when the turnout itself is far beyond practical reach.
Ouch! Quite an investment!
David
Great video! I have one question, can you use the Bluepoint control if your subboard 2" foam only and how would you install it?
Harry Kubarek from Wisconsin
David: what is the timeline for that "future" project using the bluepoint switch controller contacts? I have some very old red/green indicator lights from a 1940's layout that I am dying to use.
Hello all,
Tom, in answer to your question on drilling holes for the actuating rod, check out the Thin Branch project railroad series track laying video (look under the layouts tab and click "project railroads"). Right at the 10 minute mark, I walk through the complete steps on how to easily make the rectangular opening for the actuating rod. That should help you out.
And yes, you can connect two Blue Point rods together with another threaded connector. I have also tried it, and it worked great.
For this installation, I purchased one 10-pack of Blue Points, two Flex Link Hardware kits (one kit will connect 5 Blue Points), and two packages of Flex Link Tubing. (Although, because many of the turnouts were close to the edges of the layout, I really needed just one package of Flex Link Tubing.)
I used my cable-tacking staple gun to hold the tubing under the layout, but there are a number of types of clips that should do the job, as long as they do not squeeze the outer tube.
And for those still interested in wiring the Blue Point's toggle switch, please see my first posting on this page. It will get you rolling in the right direction for info.
Thanks again for your interest in this video.
David
Tom, I kind of assumed that the elongation was due to a little tweeking on David's part!
Great install video as usual, David! It is true that the mechanism is simple in the extreme to install; however, if you are not able to flip the layout/ module/ whatever on its side, it then becomes a different container of annelids. I purchased the starter kit with five units plus hardware, and proceeded to install one on a practice module I was using (for just such a thing as trying out new or different things), and quickly realized that installation UNDER the layout would be different indeed! For one thing, there would be, of necessity. a lot of crawling out from under, and back under, the layout, as you would need to make the adjustments , measurements and other operations necessary to the install. Now, I'm not one to turn away from hard work if it's necessary, but if that work involves groveling like a reptile on the floor trying to work overhead, and having to repeatedly scramble out from under and back again, my back and kinky right shoulder immediately go on strike. Needless to say, as much as I really do like the Blue Point, as one whose layout does NOT flip on its side, I'm going to have to pass on them.
P.S You didn't mention about the wiring, and the need to get the right wire on the right connection, but I think that's part of the "out-and- back under" too.
David… After doing a bit of research I encountered a couple of ideas that might add a little to some of your discussion on the installation of the Blue Point controllers.
First, you mentioned an idea for extending the reach of the control rods ie-checking the R/C hobby stores for a longer choke tube. Blue Point themselves suggests using two lengths of their control rod(part #40024-5) and joining them together with their threaded stud(part #40051). This would give you a reach of 6 feet. It works great, it allowed me to control a turnout on the other side of my 4 foot wide island. I found out the hard way to be sure to cover the joined area with the outside tube. In addition, Blue Point offers blue plastic holders(part #40057) for supporting the tubing on the long runs.
You folks are doing a great job! So nice to have all this video to go along with the printed instructions that come with our locos and accessories. You have put a great team together from Jenny behind the camera to yourself producing the video. Best five bucks a month I have spent in years! Thanks again.
David….I noticed on the Walthers website that they list 13 items under Blue Point Controller. Do all the pieces that you used in the video to install the controller come in one package with the controller or did you supplement the install? Thank you.
David – one important part of the installation I think is missing – that is the control wire hole up through the layout to the switch. In this video looked like it was elongated rather than just a 1/4" hole. More importantly I think the alignment of the blue point to the switch should have been shown as its been my experience that the throw is not quite good enough to give good contact between the stock rail and the point if the blue point isn't mounted exactly right. Ask me how I know this….
Another informative as well as entertaining video by David.
Great job!
Thanks David. The explanations answered my questions.
Hello everyone,
Thanks for the comments, I'll try to answer what I can for you:
Carlo: The twin nuts is a great idea, and it would allow me to use a nut driver instead of the pliers, making the job much easier/faster. Great idea!
If you run the choke cable around to the other side of the Blue Point, you can set your layout up for an "all in" knobs arrangement. I've bent the choke cable as tight as an 8" diameter loop for installation, and it still operates just fine. You may need to leave a longer loop under the layout to get the knob close enough to the turnout it operates, but it should work just fine.
David: Yes, if you're on a peninsula or a module, you could easily install a second clevis and operate the Blue Point from a second location. Also, while Blue Point offers 3-foot choke cable sections, I suspect if you nose around an RC supplier, you can get much longer ones.
George: Yes, the short length of the really close turnouts did not require clips to hold them to the layout. It's advised to use the clips on longer runs, as I show in the video, but I found for anything that was 12" or shorter, it didn't need them. I installed those more than two years ago now, and they still work great.
The steel wire included with the Blue Point measures 5". Once installed, it gives you 2-1/4" of actuating wire above the top of the Blue Point. You can easily swap it out for a longer piece of spring steel. For something longer than 3-1/2", you'll want a heavier gauge wire anyway to insure the point rails stay tight to the stock rail.
Also, the Blue Point features a double-pole double throw toggle switch built into the mechanism – it is what produces the audible click you hear when the points are set. You can use it as two single-pole double throw switches, meaning you could use one side for powering the turnout's frog and the other to control a signal or panel light. A future project I have in mind will use Blue Points for building an operator-controlled interlocking plant, which will set turnouts and signals, and require panel lights too. It should be an interesting project, and I think these little guys will work perfectly for it.
As I think I mention in the video, while the installation looks involved, it really doesn't take any longer to put in a Blue Point than it does to install a Tortoise. It's all a mater of preference.
Thanks for the questions!
David
An excellent "how to" video David, thank you. I have some remote turnouts that need actuators and I was trying to avoid electric throws, so the Blue Point will solve that. The best part of the video was being able to use your favorite forstner bit again 🙂
Whenever I need to insert a threaded rod I jam two nuts together and then just use a spanner/pliers on the 2nd nut to drive the rod in. This saves you from damaging the rod as you pointed out. To undo the nuts just grab another pair of pliers and twist apart.
Also, it would have been nice to see a few other different variations of the install like what to do if you want to have them all set for the main line and all the knobs in.
David (or others):
Is it possible by using a second clevis to operate one Blue Point turnout throw from two locations, such as from opposite sides of a peninsula?
And what would be the challenges if one wanted to mount a Blue Point turnout throw from considerably longer away – 6 feet or more – than is provided for with the length of choke rod that it comes with?
Yes, yes, and yes!!! A great video on installing the Blue Point turnout throws! Five stars! As I am using these throws on my layout (43 of them) it will be a great help.
Instead of using pliers to screw in the threaded rod because it will damage the threads, as you pointed out, I use two nuts jammed together. Then just turn the back nut to screw it in. To get them apart just use two pliers on each of the nuts and twist apart.
Perfect timing as I have been looking at these on-line at Micro Mark and wondering about their installation and performance. Quick question, why did you use a retainer clip behind the fascia on the example in the video, but not on the others that were already installed? Did it have to do with the short length of run for the actuator cable?
Also it appears there are two sets of electrical connections on the Blue Point. Obviously one can feed the frog. Can the other be used for position indicator lights?
Last question, is the rod long enough to pass through 2-3/8" of foam, plywood and sub-roadbed?