| Last updated on November 22, 2020
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I saw you did this but you didn’t mention that the rail that moves should always be on the inside of the curve. Sometimes if the curve goes in the opposite direction this is not possible but that is not the usual.
While David does an admirable job most times, I find it far easier to use my rail nipper to trim ties on flex track and less likely to slip and cut things (like me) instead of a hobby knife.
Hi David,
The layouts moving on a treat however one thing to mention perhaps is that Code 55 Peco Flex track “bends” one way better than the other – the paper label that comes attached to the length of each track length identifies the easier way ( the ties on one side are joined together differently) and thus allow the track to flex easier.
Kind regards
Dean
Hi David, This is Rocco from north New Jersey. My Question is: Is it necessary to use peco flex track on ” The canadian canyon series part 9″ for the curve,? Can you use Atlas flex track instead?
Is there a reason for the Caulking/Glue you use, instead of just using track nails? I work in HO, so the track nail heads are not as noticeable, especially after the track is painted. After the ballast is glued down, my track ends up being glued down without the extra step of using the Caulking/Glue. If the nail heads are too noticeable I can then remove them. Possibly where you are gluing the track down in Canadian Canyons Series 9, you will not be adding ballast. However, it appears to me you guys always glue track down, no mater where on the layout you are laying track.
Track nails are really noticeable in N scale as well as the deformation that occurs because N scale ties are so small. I have lots of used N scale track that was tailed down and about every 8 ties, I needed to replace because they were nailed to the roadbed and ripped during take-up or adjustment. Most N scalers I’ve seen use caulk or wood glue to secure their track, whichever they prefer.
Shouldn’t insulated rail joiners be used on the frog rails of Electrofrog turnouts? I see short circuits.
If your space is always air-conditioned for temperature and humidity, expansion-contraction may not be much of an issue. But soldering every rail joint could eventually result in buckled rails. And rail gaps are irrelevant when soldering the joints.
Working in N I find it easier to solder feeders to the bottom of the rail joiners. A bit more work when laying track, but a lot less work later. And neater looking, too.
This video comes in at the prefect time as I am starting to lay some S scale flex track for one of my sidings. You certainly cleared up a couple of concerns I had for bending/shaping curves. I will leave a small gap such as you did to prevent the possibility of the rails kinking do to expanding/contracting because of changes in weather and temperature/humidity conditions in your train room/area. I swear by the D.A.P. 260, it makes it so much easier to hold the curvature of the track, as well as eliminating the use of too many track pins. Look forward to the next segment.
in part 9 you left some gaps in the rails, is there a magical gap width? I have spent a lot of time making the gap at zero only finding doing so I compromised the distance between rails.
Thankyou David for part 9 Canadian Canyons. I was having trouble with my turnouts and flex track matching just like you did. Being new to the hobby I follow mrm religiously. I now know from your video that it is normal to trim and as you say scootch things around a little. I enjoy your series and know I am getting value for my aussie dollar. Hoo roo to the team and thankyou.
Hey David, did you need to lightly file the cut rail end to eliminate slight rough edges or are your flush cutters really that good? (I suspect I need to invest in new rail cutters)
Thanks, Robert
Thanks David… I was going through CC withdrawal waiting for the next episode. Guess that happens when you have time to peek at the web cam each day looking for progress… and I’ve seen plenty. Kent and crew must be burning the midnight oil editing videos. Keep ’em coming!
After watching Part 9 on the laying of flex-track,I noticed the soldering of each joint.
Where I live in Australia it is not unusual to have temperatures up to 44 deg C which is to be blunt is b****y hot and you can imagine the movement at each joint. I have always even while my hand-laying stage in my life only soldered every second joint and set the gap using an old credit card and usually at the coolest part of the day because my train room is a part of my garage and therefore the outside temperature is mimicked inside so the most pleasant time to lay track is in the cooler months where daytime temps can average about 5 to 10 deg C.
By soldering every second joiner I have eliminated the need to put in droppers on every length.
Even though I am at this stage bordering on 70 yo and having built six layouts (2 totally hand-laid) I enjoy watching other people working and the use of modern materials even though I still use the old ways of construction.
Looking forward to future progress videos.
Love the still picture for this episode. It looks like David has found a way to do his crunch curls! LOL. Those N gauge flexitracks, wow some resistance there. Perhaps Jenny could edit a fitness video of David do reps in various places 9repeated vids) – lift1, liftq, lift 1. Good vid Haha
You didn’t mention it ( or I missed it ) but when using flex track around curves/bends do you use the moving versus the solid track on the INSIDE or OUTSIDE of the bend???
David: When using the Zuron(tm) cutter I was taught to cut from top and bottom of the rail, not side to side as you’re demonstrating, as cutting side to side puts a burr on the top and bottom of the rail. Also, I was taught to solder track STRAIGHT then curve it around. I note you’re using Peco track and the resistance to curving is quite pronounced. Are the solder joints smooth(?), because you want avoid any kinks where the rails meet.
Great segment on laying flex track, especially pre-forming the curves before laying on the roadbed, good tip. I have found with HO flex track that starting a curve on the end tip of a 3 foot section sometimes causes a kink in the curve, so I be sure that the curve starts well within a full 3 foot section to avoid those nasty kinks and later derailments. Thanks.
I lay my flextrack a little differently on curves. I first start by laying only the first half of the caulk for the flextrack, roughly fit the next section, solder the joint then apply the caulk up to the middle of the next section of flextrack and stick it down. This gives me a better transition between the flextrack with less chance of kinks at the joints and a few inches where the track isn’t caulked will be fine especially after adding ballast or just put a little diluted white glue where the caulk is missing.
I’m not able to go visit other peoples layouts so it’s difficult for me to see how other people do things so I love seeing these construction videos (I pick up so much from them) however this one seemed to end a little short, like how do you connect to the opposing turnout and join 2 opposing flextrack on a curve?
Cheers,
Carlo.